#13-Electric Power and Current Hello. Welcome back. Today we're going to do a fairly simple and straightforward experiment using electricity. We want to look at some common household appliances and determine the power and the current that flows when the appliances are turned on. Now, power is important to us because it determines energy and consequently, the amount of money that you're going to spend when you turn on the appliance. We define power as the rate of energy transfer. So pretty obviously, a high power rating means energy is being transferred quickly which means that your bill is going to go up. Current, on the other hand, is defined as the rate of charged movement. Current is important to us for safety reasons. When too high a current is flowing, electrical wires heat up and that can lead to melted insulation, to sparks, and to fires in the home. And also remember that it's current which kills you, so whenever you're using electric devices you want to be very very careful. We'd ask you to inspect each appliance that you're using during the experiment. Check the cords. Check the plugs. Make sure they're not frayed at all and they look sound and substantial. If not, ask for help from the laboratory assistant. We don't want you to get hurt during the course of the experiment. Let's begin then. Your first step is to select four appliances that you're going to use. There are a number of them provided for you in the science center. We've got for example an electric toaster, we've got hot plates, we've got a number of different things for you to choose. So pick four. If you look in your experiment sheet in your laboratory manual you'll find two tables. The first table, first column gives you a place to record the four appliances so write down the names of the appliances that you're going to use. Here's a little hint: If you're going to use the toaster as one of your appliances put that one last. Because as you know the toaster doesn't stay on for a long time. It will turn itself off. With the four appliances listed by name, you want to, in the next column, record the power rating as listed by the manufacturer. Each appliance should have the power rating. You may have to search around. You may have to look on the bottom, for example. Find the power rating. Write that down next to the corresponding appliance. If you can't find a power rating, again, ask for help from the laboratory assistant. You want to, in the second column of your data table, record the rated power for each appliance, the one that the manufacturer gives to us. After that we're going to make a comparison. We're going to see what the actual power is for each of the appliances and to do that we use a device called a watt meter because power is measured as energy over time or joules per second which are called watts. we use a device called a watt meter. And the one that we've got for you is called "Watts Up?" ...A little play on words. As soon as you plug it in you should get a reading on the dial right here but I want you to pay particular attention to the little mark listed over here in the column by the side. There are three positions, a dollar sign, KW for kilowatt, and HR for hour. You want that little indicater next to the KW position. So using the mode button, simply push the button enough times until the little black bar... that's not a minus sign, it's an indicater... is next to the KW position. There's no On/Off switch for the What's Up meter. Simply plug it into an outlet and you're ready to go. What I'm going to do now is to plug in an appliance and show you how to read the What's Up meter. So we take the power cord of an appliance, plug that in, and right away you see that we get a reading. Now the reading changes a little bit as the appliance heats up but it will stabilize after a bit. Notice here that the reading is in kilowatts. We want to move the decimal point three places to the right to change it to watts. So that there particular reading is not .619 but rather 619... right now 618. We'll record that value down in the sheet next to the appliance. Do that for each of the four appliances that you're going to use. Another hint on safety: Remember when you pull out a plug grab it by the plug. We don't want you grabbing ahold of the cord and yanking it out. That's not safe. Once you've recorded the actual power readings for the four appliances you're done with the What's Up? meter and you can set it aside. The thing that we want you to see is how well actual power readings correspond with manufacturer power readings. That takes care of power. Now we're interested in electric current. As you'll have seen in class and also explained in your laboratory manual we can determine the current flowing through an appliance if we know the power and the supply, potential difference or voltage. There's an equation that we'd like you to use saying that current is equal to power divided by voltage. I = P divided by V We're going to use the power ratings that we measured... the actual power consumptions... and divide those by the voltage or potential difference which is being supplied. Now, that varies across the United States. Generally it's between 110 and 120 volts and we'd like you to use 120 volts for this experiment. So in the fourth column of your response sheet, divide the measured power by 120 to get the theoretical current which flows through each appliance. Those values should be rounded to the nearest tenths or one decimal place. So for example, 4.7 or 10.3 Don't carry out the divisions to many many significant digits. That tells you what current should be flowing through the appliance. Then we're going to measure the actual currents that flow. We're going to do this in terms of plugging more than one appliance in at a time. Our homes are connected in a parallel connection. What that means is that every time you plug in another appliance, more current is drawn from the source and the total current in the circuit increases. What we want to do first before we plug anything in, is total up our currents. You're going to take the values of theoretical current that you have in the fourth column of Data Table 1 and transfer them down to Data Table 2. But this time adding. Your first appliance current goes at the top of the table. Add to that the second current so that you get the first and the second together and record that in the second space. Then add the third theoretical current. Get that total and record it in the third place. Finally, add all four theoretical currents and put the total in. That total should remain less than 25 amps. 25 amps is a substantial amount of current. We don't want to exceed that. In fact, you can do a quick check as you're writing down your power values. If you add up all the powers and you get more than 2,500 watts, that's probably too much. At this point now we've got our currents, at least the theoretical ones which are flowing through our system. We want to measure actual currents. To do that we use a device called an ammeter. Current is measured in amps and the device that we use is an ammeter. And I've got one here for you. Now, this ammeter does go up to 25 amps and if we get a look at the face there's a couple of things that I want to show you. First we want to check and make sure that the needle is zeroed when nothing is plugged in. That is to say, on the face right here, with no appliances plugged in, we have 0 current. There's a little adjustment screw on the face right here that can be used to align the needle but let me warn you that the meter is very fragile, so if you have any questions at all you again ought to ask for some help. If we look at reading the meter you can see the big numbers across... 5, 10, 15, and so on. In between 0 and 5 we've got five divisions. Each major division is one amp and then in-between, the small divisions, are a half an amp. So you ought to be able to record your values to the nearest half of an amp. Well, this device is plugged in because we want the currents flowing through it. So I've got that plugged into the mains. It's a substantial heavy-duty cord so that we can safely carry the currents. As we're going to plug in more than one appliance at a time we want to use a device that allows us to do that and we've got a power strip here. Now, the power strip is a safe way to plug in several appliances at once. We don't want to use the little multiple connecters that you find in the dimestore. Those aren't safe. If we've got several appliances we want to get a power strip like this. That power strip needs to be plugged into the ammeter. And so we'll bring up the power cord. That plugs into the side of the box over here. We get that plugged in and this particular device has an On/Off switch. We'll turn that on and that should give us an indicater light saying that the power strip is hot. What we're going to do now is simply plug in each of the appliances. Let's use a hot plate as our first appliance here. We'll plug it into the power strip. And as we do, our ammeter comes on telling us that in fact the hot plate was left on by someone. That's something you don't want to do. I've turned it off now. As we turn it on, we should see the current pick up. Go ahead and turn that all the way up to the high setting. That looks to me like it's just about 5 amps. Maybe we want to record that as 4.9 or 5.0 and that's the current flowing with one appliance connected. Let's go on to our second appliance now. We've got another kind of heater. This is quite an old fashioned one. Looks like it's on its last legs. This has no On/Off switch so I'd expect that when I plug it in I would get an increase in the current just as soon as it's plugged in. And sure enough... We've got two appliances and as I mentioned before, when we're connected in parallel each time we add an appliance the total current goes up. Another appliance that I've brought along today is a heat lamp. We've chosen mostly heat producing devices because heat producing device generally have quite high currents. If we plug this one in nothing happens of course because our heat lamp is not turned on. If we do turn it on... and I'll keep this away from the camera because it puts out quite a bit of light. As soon as we turn it on we see another increase in the current. We're going to record that value in our third position under the actual currents. Finally our fourth appliance. I'll go ahead and use the toaster here. And we'll plug that in. Nothing happens of course when we first plug it in because it's not turned on. But as soon as we press down the plunger on the toaster there goes the current. So we're going to record that value as well. You notice that it flicked off right there. That's probably because we exceeded the current limitations so you want to be careful as you do this. Once you've recorded the four currents with each of the appliances connected, you're done with the measurements for this part. We want to go ahead and disconnect each of the appliances. Notice again that I'm using the plugs to do that. Pull these out. Don't yank them out by the cords. We want to remember to turn off each of the appliances, and we're done with the major part of the experiment. We've totalled up the theoretical currents and then we've measured the actual currents. And at this point you want to make a comparison. How well do your totals compare. If they compare well we want you to say so. If there are differences, record those. Remember that small differences are expected whenever we make measurements. And so your task is to use your judgment and decide whether the measured currents and the theoretical currents compare closely or if there are major differences. And then we'd like you to speculate on why the differences might have occurred so write that down on your response sheet as well. Let me get rid of some of these appliances, and then we can look at the last part of the experiment. In the last part of the experiments we ask you to look at a three way lamp. A three way lamp normally is rated with three power ratings. Generally 50 watts, 100 watts, and 150 watts. I'd like you to look at the lightbulb you have and write those down. Then we're going to plug in our three way lightbulb. And we're going to test the currents that flow. First of all, determine the theoretical currents. You know how to do that already. Divide the power rating by the voltage. So take our 50 watts and the divide it by 120 volts and write that down. We'd expect that as the power rating goes up, the currents should go up. So write down the three theoretical currents that you'd expect to get from the lightbulb. So go ahead and turn on the lightbulb... I won't do that for you now... and record the actual current flowing at 50 watts, the lowest setting. Do it again at the middle setting. And do it again at the highest setting. Again we're looking at how well theoretical currents compare with actual measured currents. The differences that you find might be attributable to our device right here, our measuring device, the ammeter. If the ammeter is not perfectly accurate of course our results will not be accurate. So think about things that could cause what we consider to be experimental error in the experiment. Once you've completed that you're all but done. There is one more thing though that we ask you to think about and that's safety. Again I've mentioned looking at the power cords and the plugs to make sure that they're substantial. And certainly you know not to stick your finger into electrical outlets. But when I talk about safety here we're talking about fuses and circuit breakers. Why do we have fuses and circuit breakers in our houses? Well, these are devices which are current-limiting devices and if you want to know more about them... and of course you do... attend your class, your instructors is going to talk about them there. Well, that's all we have today. This is a simple experiment. You should be in and out of the lab in about thirty minutes. Again, please be careful. We don't want you to get hurt while you're in the lab. Show your response sheets to the lab assistants and always ask for help if you have any questions. Until next time, that's all for today... Bye for now.